(Revised version)
Leviticus 19—“The
stranger who dwells among you shall be to you as one born among you, and you
shall love him as yourself; for you were strangers in the land of Egypt: I am
the LORD your God.”
This verse speaks to
the overriding change that Egypt helped produce in me.
I last visited one of my favorite places in the world 11
years ago. Yet Siwa Oasis,
the little jewel of Egypt’s Western Desert, still looms big and fresh in my
memory.
All of Siwa’s individual traits can be found elsewhere in
the world—but I know of few locations that have so many special characteristics
in one place. Tens of thousands of palm trees, huge and pure sand dunes, ancient ruins,
the mud town of Shali, Cleopatra’s Pool and lots of other springs, the Palm Trees Hotel
and Abdu’s
Restaurant—both cheap but sufficient—countless bicycle trails and donkey
carts, starry nights, and a lack of traffic signals make up this beautiful
desert home.
Egypt has many attractions beyond the ancient wonders (or
current problems) that receive all the headlines. Even more importantly, Egypt has
charming people who also elude media attention—including in Siwa.
Siwans, like the people of other desert havens in the
nation, consider themselves citizens of their oasis first, and of Egypt second.
They are North African Berber, not Arab or pharaonic, and they retain their own
language, culture, dress, and history. Today many speak Arabic and a few speak
English, but whatever the linguistic connection or barrier, you can sip tea for
hours in local shops with your gracious, smiling hosts. This may result in
trading email addresses—and some actually do write you—or even in receiving
gifts on your subsequent trip…a year later.
Back in Cairo and Alexandria, people often look at you with
dollar signs in their eyes. But if you speak a little Arabic or patron a shop
or restaurant multiple times, Egyptians may help you, laugh with you, spend the
day with you, or become your friend. Egyptian associates like to pull pranks,
but they will feel deeply honored if you ever respond to their requests to hang
out. Just note their invitations assume several hours of your time—whether you get
stuck in traffic or not.
Egyptians enjoy discussing religion and politics. Muslim
friends have asked me genuinely about the nature of the Trinity or the life and
death of Christ. One Osama and Mohamad found it funny, because of their names, to
drink tea with a Christian American. But personal topics are fair game also: “I
am a strong man; I have six children!” Or, “Why aren’t you married yet?” (By
the way, I did find my Christian American bride in Egypt!)
Egypt was the first place in which I lived outside my own
country. I was excited, but scared, not knowing the people, food, or
language—and only trusting one viewpoint about their religion and government. I
met my first Egyptian on my Munich-Cairo flight. His friendly enthusiasm for my
visit started a rapid, dramatic shift in my approach to this ancient nation,
which, after all, was far older than my own. Now I have dozens of Egyptian contacts,
including my closest non-American friend.
The spiritual state of Egypt greatly tugs on my heart and
informs my prayers. I long to see hearts redeemed in phenomenal communities
like Tanta, Dahab, Agouza, and Siwa. Among my richest memories in Egypt was
worshiping at Maadi Community Church. Members
hail from across the globe. My small group had Czech, Egyptian, Brazilian, or
American passports. One morning the pastor invited everyone to turn and face
the sunlight—and Egypt—behind us. With hands raised, we proclaimed:
“Shine Jesus, shine; fill this land with the Father’s glory!
Blaze Spirit, blaze; set our hearts on fire!
Flow river, flow; flood the nations with grace and mercy.
Send forth Your Word, Lord, and let there be light!”
I spent nine months in Egypt between 2004 and 2006. The
government has changed greatly since then. But after working with many
Egyptians in Qatar in 2010-2013, I think the people have only changed a little.
When you travel, and live, with a heart that strives to love and learn from
others, God might change you more than anyone you meet along the way.
~~~~~~~~
(Originally published by the Maadi Messenger, in Egypt.)
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